A Journey Of A Lifetime On The Rocky Mountaineer Train: First Passage To The West From Banff to Vancouver
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If you’d told me at school that a train journey would be one of the best travel experiences of my life, I wouldn’t have believed you.
How good can a train ride be?
Well, if you’re taking a trip on the Rocky Mountaineer, it can be out-of-this-world good, amazing, incredible. There aren’t enough adjectives to describe just how enjoyable this experience was.
From the people to the scenery, and the comfort to the food, this train journey through the Canadian Rockies is really something special.
Before we booked our tickets, I scoured countless reviews from other travelers. This is an expensive experience, one I’m likely to do only once in my lifetime so I needed to do my research and understand what previous passengers had enjoyed. Some couldn’t stop raving about their time on the Rocky Mountaineer, while other passengers seemed unsure about spending two full days on a train. Let me tell you now – I fell into the first camp.
Yes, you will be sitting for most of the two-day journey, but when the view outside is constantly changing from mountain peaks to rolling rivers, it’s hard to feel bored. I packed a book in my bag but in between admiring the views, eating delicious meals, listening to stories and anecdotes from our hosts, and wandering to the outdoor platform, I didn’t have a chance to read my book once.
Throw in friendly service and the most comfortable train seats you could imagine (seriously, these seats are a dream – they’re heated and they recline!), it’s easy to see why this journey is a must.
None of this includes the wonderful company I got to experience this adventure with and I’m so glad we all got to make these memories together.
I’ve racked my brains for something negative to say about this experience. But, honestly, I really can’t think of one thing. Maybe, just maybe, my pasta was slightly undercooked on our first lunch, but that was it. That was the only thing I picked up on throughout our two days on the Rocky Mountaineer. Everything else was just incredible and that’s why I have to tell you about my experience on the Rocky Mountaineer from Banff to Vancouver.
Your Choice Of Rail Routes On The Rocky Mountaineer
We enjoyed the First Passage To The West route on our Rocky Mountaineer Journey but the company actually offers 4 different routes to choose from, 3 in Canada and 1 in the USA. Here’s what each of them offers so you can make sure you’re picking the best journey for you!
First Passage To The West
This legendary train route connects west Canada to the east and is the only passenger rail service to run along this line. travelling between Vancouver and Banff via a night in Kamloops, this journey takes in iconic sights such as Kicking Horse Canyon, the Spiral Tunnels, Castle Mountain and Hell’s Gate.
View More: First Passage To The West Route
Journey Through The Clouds
Enjoy a journey through the Canadian Rockies from Vancouver to Jasper with a night in Kamloops. On this route you get to see Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Rockies, as well as Pyramid Falls, Rainbow Canyon, and the Jaws of Death Gorge.
View More: Journey Through The Clouds Route
Rainforest To Gold Rush
The longest journey on Rocky Mountaineer’s routes is the Rainforest to Gold Rush route which takes passengers from Vancouver to Jasper via Whistler and Quesnel. With 3 days on board, you’ll have more time to spot wildlife and see incredible sights such as Howe Sound, Mount Robson, Deep Creek Bridge, Brandywine Falls and Painted Chasm.
View More: Rainforest To Gold Rush Route
Rockies To The Red Rocks
Rocky Mountaineer’s USA route travels from Moab to Denver via Glenwood Springs. On this journey you’ll see Glenwood Canyon, Mount Garfield, Big 10 Curve and Ruby Canyon. Venturing through vast open landscapes, this route can be enhanced with add-ons to Arches National Park, Canyonlands National Park and more!
View More: Rockies To The Red Rocks Route
If I was lucky enough to do another Rocky Mountaineer trip, I’d love to try out the Rainforest to Gold Rush route. Not only is this longer but I’d love to visit Whistler and to see Jasper too. Although the Rockies to Red Rocks journey does looks incredible!
Key Information About My Journey On The Rocky Mountaineer
- We enjoyed the First Passage To The West Route from Banff to Vancouver via Lake Louise and Kamloops.
- Our journey felt like it began the moment we checked in. You get told your options of where to check in on your booking information. For some people, this is in the lobby of their hotel but we decided to check-in in the centre of Banff in Bear Street Mall. Greeted by an enthusiastic member of the Rocky Mountaineer team, this gave us a glimpse of what was to come. Plus we got a gorgeous gold pin as a little souvenir for our journey.
- We had tickets for the Gold Leaf Service. This meant everything was included including premium cocktails and you get to experience the journey from the top deck of a double decker carriage. The bottom deck is the dining carriage where you enjoy your breakfast and lunch and the top deck has incredible panoramic windows, maximising the views you see along the way.
- Overnight in Kamloops is included if you’re on the First Passage To The West Route. It’s worth noting that you might not get a chance to explore Kamloops depending on what time you arrive into town, therefore don’t make any dinner reservations for this stop.
For example, on our journey, we arrived quite late and headed straight to the hotel. It would have been great to see a small part of Kamloops or go out for dinner but the hosts on the Rocky Mountaineer kept us entertained and we were so full from our food on board we didn’t feel like we’d missed out. - If you’re travelling with friends and family, and you book separately like we did, you can sync up your bookings via the Rocky Mountaineer website or through your travel agent. This means you’ll be sitting together throughout your journey. I’d definitely recommend doing this as it makes everything so much more special to enjoy it with your loved ones.
- Take a small bag on board the train with you. I packed a book, a light waterproof jacket, camera, portable charger and my valuables. Everything else gets transported for you from hotel to hotel and your suitcases magically arrive into your hotel room. It’s amazing.
- There are several different journeys on The Rocky Mountaineer with additional nights and experiences to add on if you want. Our package was the 1 night First Passage to the West Route from Banff to Vancouver. This route can also be done from Vancouver to Banff if you’re starting your journey on the west coast of Canada. After experiencing this journey, and if I had the opportunity to enjoy it again, I’d choose to do it again from Banff to Vancouver rather than the other way round. If there are any delays, there is a small chance you could arrive in to Banff in the dark missing some of the most incredible views of the trip.
- You get to enjoy breakfast and lunch on your journey. Snacks are also dished out throughout the day with some delicious cake as a late afternoon treat. The staff are more than gracious with drinks and food so you’ll never go hungry, or thirsty!
- You travel only through the daylight on the Rocky Mountaineer, giving you the best opportunity to see all the scenery on offer. The only times we were travelling through the dark was coming into Kamloops and Vancouver, and that’s only because our journeys were delayed on both sections.
If you want to know more about what to expect on-board the Rocky Mountaineer, here’s more information from frequently asked questions, what to know before you go, train schedules and tours and add-ons, as well as you on-board experience.
What Should I Wear On The Rocky Mountaineer
Honestly, whatever you feel comfortable in. For a luxury experience, this trip doesn’t require you to wear fancy clothes. You’ll be sat for a long time so the main thing is comfort. Personally, I wore wide leg, loose trousers paired with a different jumper each day and clean trainers. I also packed my warm jacket for going outside on the viewing platforms.
Why You Should Book A Trip On The Rocky Mountaineer
Well firstly, it’s the pinnacle of train travel. Super luxurious and indulgent, it’s worth every penny.
The staff absolutely dote on you throughout the 2 days. Nothing is too much for them and you leave feeling like you’ve made great friends.
You get to see the Rocky Mountains from a completely unique perspective. Yes you can drive from Banff to Vancouver but you’ll miss out on some sights you get to see on the train and it’s just bliss relaxing and enjoying the views, instead of driving for hours.
You work hard, this is a once in a lifetime experience that you deserve to enjoy. Maybe you’ve saved for years for something special, or you’re celebrating a milestone event.
What’s The Difference Between Gold Leaf Service and Silver Leaf Service?
There are 2 levels of service on the Rocky Mountaineer. Gold Leaf Service and Silver Leaf Service.
Both levels offer an exceptional experience and pre-assigned seating but it’s good to understand the difference so you can make the best choice for your Rocky Mountaineer experience.
Gold Leaf Service: Includes a bi-level carriage with a full glass-domed viewing coach at the top of the carriage and a dining coach on the lower deck. Signature cocktails, premium drinks and non-alcoholic beverages are all included and there is a dedicated large outdoor viewing platform. There a 4 hosts and a full culinary team to make your experience the best it can be, serving up gourmet a la carte meals and sweet and savoury snacks through the day.
Silver Leaf Service: Includes custom designed single level carriage with over-sized domes. Destination inspired food is served from the comfort of your seat and there are 3 hosts with you throughout your journey. Alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are included and there is an outdoor viewing area.
Silver Leaf Plus Service: This add on includes everything that Silver Leaf Service does but you get exclusive access to a lounge car where there’s an additional host, an elevated dining experience with wine pairings, and signature cocktails and premium alcoholic beverages included.
You can see more detail on the difference between Gold Leaf Service and Silver Leaf Service on the Rocky Mountaineer website.
The Journey of a Lifetime on the Rocky Mountaineer Train: From Banff To Vancouver Through the Canadian Rockies
Day 1: Banff to Kamloops
We started our 2 day journey to Vancouver on the Rocky Mountaineer In Banff. We’d spent 7 nights in Banff on the first part of our Canadian adventure and I was really sad to be leaving. I fell in love with that mountain town but walking up to The Rocky Mountaineer as the sun started rising over the mountains did help make leaving Banff a little easier.
It was a super early start – we met our transfer bus to the Rocky Mountaineer Station in Banff around 6am. Then we went to various other stops to pick up other people from various hotels in town. Arriving at the train just as the sun was starting to rise, we got the first impression of the grand Rocky Mountaineer. Glistening dark blue and with shiny flags adorning each carriage entrance, friendly staff welcomed us on board and made us feel like the most special people in the world.
Settling in on board, we adjusted our seats (heated and reclinable *swoon*) and got comfy for the start of the first half of the trip to Kamloops. Our hosts Karsten and Ivan were just the best, introducing themselves and the rest of the team before explaining how the 2 days ahead were planned out.
After picking up some passengers in Lake Louise, we headed down to breakfast. We were so lucky to be on the Gold Leaf Service which meant we were in a double decker carriage with huge windows that allowed us full view of passing scenery. The double decker carriage also meant that all main meals were all served downstairs where you can still enjoy incredible views while eating delicious food.
Do you want to know what food is on offer on the Rocky Mountaineer’s Gold Leaf service? Well, here’s the menu (just scroll down the page) that gives you an idea of what you might eat on board. Whatever you end up eating on the Rocky Mountaineer, the menus are always regionally inspired and made with locally sourced ingredients with chefs creating the most delicious dishes fresh throughout the day.
We chose what we wanted for breakfast, enjoyed a nice warm coffee, and sat back to enjoy the first meal of the trip. Then, over the tannoy, we heard “A moose, there’s a moose in the field!” The staff rushed over, just as excited as everyone in the carriage, and what do you know, there it was, a giant moose in the field. We’d barely been on the train for a couple of hours and we had our first wildlife spot of the day. Even some of our hosts hadn’t seen a moose before, and some of them had been working for years on the Rocky Mountaineer, so we knew we’d seen something special.
Although it was our first wildlife sighting of the trip, throughout our journey we got to see bald eagles, salmon, bears, and mountain goats. It’s definitely worth bringing your binoculars if you have some!
The highlights of our first day included Castle Mountain, The Spiral Tunnels, and Kicking Horse Canyon. Our hosts pointed out the main sights, talking us through the geography and history, including personal stories and giving us plenty of time to get cameras ready to take any photos.
Another highlight of our day was Karsten and Ivan. These two were absolute troopers putting in an incredible shift, especially as we arrived into Kamloops a couple of hours later than planned. From bringing me two drinks when I clearly couldn’t decide which to choose, to their unwavering upbeat attitudes, I don’t think our experience would have been the same without them.
As we travelled and gazed in awe at what we were seeing through the windows, we were also lucky enough to get an insight into working life on the Rocky Mountaineer trains and how much training the staff go through to make the journey the best for every passenger. This is a popular place to work, with many working years on the trains after beating thousands of applicants for a coveted spot on the team.
Every now and then throughout the journey, we’d get up from the comfort of our seats to head to the outdoor section of the carriage. This is one of the benefits of being in Gold Leaf Service, a large outdoor area to enjoy the journey in the fresh air. With wind in our hair, it was refreshing to get the Canadian air into our lungs and just take in the surroundings with no other distractions.
These times were my favourite, it just sunk in how lucky I was to be enjoying this experience. It was also a good chance to chat to other passengers – there were some real characters in our carriage but everyone was so lovely and had such interesting tales from life and their travels.
Along with enjoying a leisurely lunch, again on the Gold Leaf Service this is eaten in the lower deck of your carriage at a dedicated table, much of the day was a delightful routine of eating food, drinking margaritas, and taking in the passing scenery.
Karsten also mentioned that on day 2, there was a chance to get involved with the playlist on board our carriage on day 2. Leaving a piece of paper and pencil by the stairs, we put in a few requests (staying on theme with some train related choices such as Locomotion by Kylie Minogue) and Karsten’s favourites were added into the rotation for the next day.
Now if there’s ever the chance of getting bored, the Rocky Mountaineer Train has an on board newspaper called The Mile Post, guiding you through the day’s sights. Explaining much of the history of your route, giving you more detail on the points of interest you pass, and even featuring a couple of games to play, this paper was a welcome addition to the journey as well as being a nice souvenir to take home.
Banff to Kamloops – An Overnight Stop in Kamloops
After a full day of incredible sights, we trundled our way into Kamloops, where we had an overnight stop. Known for its stunning desert landscapes, Kamloops is a fascinating contrast to the lush forests and alpine beauty of the Rockies. We arrived in the dark so seeing it the next morning it was such a difference from the mountains we’d left in Banff.
Due to our train taking longer than usual to arrive in Kamloops, our time there was short. You get allocated your hotel rather than being able to choose but the hotel we stayed at was good quality, clean and ideal to get a good night’s sleep before the next day of adventure. The best thing is, you don’t even have to worry about your luggage, it’s all taken to the hotel and will be waiting in your room when you get there. All you need to do is hop on your transfer bus for the hotel you’ve been allocated and the rest is taken care of for you.
If you do arrive in Kamloops at the scheduled time, you might have enough time to head out for dinner so it’s definitely worth having a couple of places in mind in case you’re hungry!
Day Two: Kamloops to Vancouver – Exploring Iconic Sights
The next morning, we were picked up from our Kamloops hotel and back on board the Rocky Mountaineer early for day two of our journey. Our second day we headed towards Vancouver, eager to take in more of the stunning scenery. The second leg of our journey offered new perspectives of the Canadian wilderness, and this part of the journey was not as mountainous as Banff To Kamloops but equally as scenic.
Our routine followed a similar structure to the day before. Only this time, our half of the carriage was second seating at breakfast, allowing day 1’s second seating to go first. We did get a little snack to keep us going though!
Sights to Look Out For Between Kamloops and Vancouver
Sights we were told to look out for on day two of our First Passage to the West Route included Hell’s Gate, Fraser Valley, and Kamloops Lake. Personally, my favourite part was seeing the confluence of the Thompson and Fraser Rivers, the clear water of the Thompson River combining with the more silted water of the Fraser River is quite a sight.
Although I’d really enjoyed our first day on the Rocky Mountaineer, I think day 2 was my favourite. The scenery was more open and wide on this day and this meant we had more time to soak up the sights and there was more chance of spotting incredible wildlife.
Saying that, I did sadly miss a mama bear and her cubs because I got distracted by what I thought were birds – spoiler alert, they were not birds, just big lights on a telegraph pole. Clearly, I wasn’t wearing my glasses but the chance to see animals in their natural habitat while traveling through such diverse landscapes made the journey even more exciting.
We’d also built up a more friendly relationship with our hosts and everyone felt very settled into the experience. Karsten had also picked a couple of songs I’d requested the day before for the playlist – listening to Fleet Foxes while travelling through a vast valley was just perfect.
After rolling our way through the more desert part of our journey, again enjoying delicious meals and drinks throughout the day, we started pulling into the bright city lights of Vancouver. Honestly, I wasn’t ready for this journey to end. I wasn’t ready to say goodbye to our hosts, or to spending time with family. Although we had a few more days in Vancouver together, this experience was unrepeatable.
As our train pulled into the Rocky Mountaineer station in Vancouver, with staff waving us in to welcome us into the city, we got our things together and said a reluctant goodbye to Karsten, Ivan and the team, and to the Rocky Mountaineer train. Slightly tipsy from more delicious margaritas, we hopped on to our transfer bus to our hotel in Vancouver. This time, our luggage was on board but we didn’t see it until we arrived at the hotel – the Sutton Place Hotel Vancouver.
Fancy The Rocky Mountaineer in the USA? Their Rockies to the Red Rocks Route looks like an incredible journey between Moab and Denver via Glenwood Springs.
Find Out More: Rocky Mountaineer’s Rockies to the Red Rocks Route
Would I Recommend a Trip On The Rocky Mountaineer?
Firstly, I’m going to say this is an expensive experience. It’s something to save up for, probably just do once in a lifetime, and potentially sacrifice other experiences for. But, if you can afford it, and it’s something you have on your bucket list, I’d wholeheartedly recommend it. You get great value for money, and make memories that will last a lifetime. If you ever have the chance to take the Rocky Mountaineer, seize it.
The combination of luxury, adventure, and hospitality makes it an unforgettable journey. Whether you’re a nature lover, a foodie, or just someone looking for a unique way to experience Canada’s incredible landscapes, this trip is something you’ll treasure forever.
So, what’s the takeaway? Well, you’ll be sitting down for most of the trip, but with views like that, you won’t mind. Trust me when I say this is an experience you’ll never forget – one that will make you rethink what you can expect from a train journey. It’s truly a journey of a lifetime.
















